Addressing Issues with Unlocking the GateCrafters Automatic Gate Lock

While the GateCrafters Automatic Gate Lock generally functions without any problems, sometimes customers experience issues with the lock getting hung up on the receiving pin or issues with the latching mechanism being in need of a good cleaning.  Luckily enough, these are two issues that are easily corrected.

When a GateCrafters Automatic Gate Lock is functioning normally, the key that keeps the lock in place is turned outward and the lock is engaged. As the gate comes to a close, the pin snaps into place behind the lock. If the gate lock should get stuck in a locked or unlocked position, it is possible to clean the lock of any obstructions.

In order for the lock to retract open or return to the locked position the lock must be able to be drawn cleanly into the solenoid. It also must be able to spring back out. Older models of the GateCrafters Automatic Gate Lock can really benefit from cleaning and adjustment.

To disassemble your gate lock, first remove the top four screws from the device. Then, remove the cover plate. On the inside of the lock, you will see a clip. The clip is what holds the main release lock in place.  You will want to pop the clip out and remove the manual lock by sliding the piece out. There will be a pin with a spring that goes into the solenoid. What you’re  going to do next is clean and adjust the spring. When you have done this, reassemble your lock.

Checking the functionality and making adjustments to your GateCrafters Automatic Gate Lock should keep it working for years to come.

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Addressing Common Issues With Magnetic Disturbance and Electrical Interference

One frequent concern that customers who use driveway sensors in conjunction with their gate openers is the inability of the gate to close due to exit wand placement or gate movement.  It is important to note that the exit wand can only stop the gate from closing. Therefore, when experiencing issues with the exit wand, customers may notice that the gate continues to open perfectly without any problem. The exit wand is subject to interference from the changing speed of the gate closure, which can contribute to the problem.

As a gate closes, the speed at which the gate is moving changes. Once the gate nears the end of its cycle of movement, it begins to move at a slower pace than before. Because the  exit wands are made to detect metal on a vehicle to open the gate opener, there is a possibility that the movement of the gate as it changes speed triggers a magnetic disturbance. If there are loose bolts on the gate brackets or if the gate has been freshly lubricated to cause it to swing with more speed and less resistance, then the gate may be vibrating. Vibrating metal can cause a larger magnetic disturbance than the movement of metal from a car. The vibration can cause the sensor to continually open a gate for a car that may or may not be there.

If there is an issue with possible gate vibration, then your best bet is to address whatever is wrong with the gate and it should function normally. If there are no visible or tactile problems with the gate, then another option is to bury the exit wand deeper in the ground to decrease sensitivity.

If you have tried addressing gate vibration and burying the wand deeper, but still have an issue with the gate opening continuously, then there may be an electrical interference. As the power supply comes from the control board, the transfer of power from the board to the motor affects the amount of power available for the exit wand. In order to decrease the gate speed at the end of the cycle, the control board provides less voltage to the motor. Because voltage and amperage are inversely proportional, the amperage taken up is greater as the board decreases the voltage from the power supply.

If the power supply has degraded over time or the wire connections from the power supply have corroded, then there is less amperage given or available. Therefore, as the gate moves to slow down, electronic noise is created as the amperage/voltage channels to the exit wand.  In order to test for electronic noise, you can move the red and black power leads to a battery not associated with the system at all. The leads are compatible with 12-24V power. This means you can take a car battery or some other 12V battery to power the wand for a few cycles. If doing this corrects the problem, then it is time to start cutting off the tips of your wires, re-stripping them, and then reconnecting them. If adjusting the wires does not work, then it is time to consider purchasing a new transformer.


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